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CoCo500
598 Fourth St. (at Brannan St.), San Francisco, CA
(415) 543.2222
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Loretta Keller tore up the carpet and tossed out the tablecloths at her bistro Bizou and rechristened the space CoCo500. Her new menu kicks off with a short list of smart bar food, such as duck prosciutto with Meyer lemon and fennel and fried green beans primed for dipping in chipotle-seasoned sauce. They’re the sort of palate teasers that wash down well with a mojito or any of the cocktails that spring from the bar in impressive numbers. And while the food is solid enough to fend off serious complaints, there’s a messy mix-and-match composition to the menu, and the waitstaff offers no tips or guidance. This may not matter to the hurried diner in possession of front row seats, but to those who look to restaurants as destinations, not stopping points to somewhere else, CoCo500 offers mixed results. (J.S.)
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