The name derives from the Balinese concept of duality, and here you’ll find some surprising pairings, like refined tea service amid throbbing hip-hop music and humble Asian street food matched with high-end sake and chenin blanc. Chef Timothy Luym roams from Tokyo to Thailand and beyond, delivering perky small plates such as ahi poke, the purple fish glistening with sesame and soy, and green papaya and mango salad, feisty with chili and flanked by sugarcane-impaled shrimp. Lovers of the lumpia, the Filipino grease missile, can get their groove on, but sexier dishes include garlic-and-pepper beef with poached bone marrow, and sweet pork belly braised and skewered with pineapple chunks. Poleng morphs throughout the day from tearoom to restaurant to full-blown nightclub, so if the food is sometimes sloppy (the vegetable dumplings, say, not pan-fried but burnt) and the amiable service occasionally sluggish well, even the most grounded of us struggle for balance when we’re trying to do a lot at once. (J.S.)