From projects to prosciutto

Speaking in gentrification terms, the part of the Mission between Duboce Avenue and 16th Street is a bit of a late bloomer: The wave of hipsterdom that flooded upper Valencia and Guerrero Streets during the last 10 years pretty much stopped at 16th. But now foodies and culturephiles, presumably tired of the Mission hype—and looking for a new sketchy neighborhood to demarginalize—are moving in.

The change kicked off when the Valencia Gardens projects (so crime-ridden, they seemed straight out of The Wire) were razed in 2004 and replaced by a public-housing development of modern flats and townhouses. With the streets suddenly safer, the hood attracted a handful of new businesses, including Mission Beach Cafe, indie clothing shop Miranda Caroligne, and, most recently, super-sleek Conduit, which draws diners from all over the city. Some blocks still feel ignored, but these new spots—along with art-gallery openings and neighborhood anchor Zeitgeist—are keeping the streets abuzz after dark.

The surest indication that the area is on the upswing? Parking has gotten even scarcer—and is likely to get worse when the historic Levi’s factory, which has sat ominously empty on practically a full square block since 2002, becomes home to the San Francisco Friends School, a private K–8, this fall. Bill Clarke, who co-owns and lives above Mission Beach Cafe, echoes the sentiment of many locals: “Kids are a sign that we feel the neighborhood is safe. It makes a statement.”

GRUB
The splashiest new addition to upper Valencia is Conduit, named after the expanses of gleaming pipes in the spacious dining room. Some sniff that the restaurant is a bit high-end for this area, but at least it’s helping put the neighborhood on the map. 280 Valencia St.

At the well-appointed Mission Beach Cafe, locals now have a stylish place to perk up with Blue Bottle Coffee, meet for a meal, or indulge in Alan Carter’s famed morning pastries and desserts. 198 Guerrero St.

Pauline’s Pizza has been a favorite of families and gourmands for years, particularly for its pesto, along with fresh toppings and salads from the restaurant’s own gardens. But in late 2007, Little Star Pizza introduced some competition down the block with its second location, serving beloved thin-crust and deep-dish pies. 260 Valencia St.; 400 Valencia St.

Four Barrel Coffee showcases custom, single-origin-blend beans. A limited menu of drinks (read: no nonfat milk or syrups) brewed in the two La Marzocco Mistral machines has been available from a makeshift cart since March, but at press time, the official opening was slated for mid-May. 375 Valencia St.

THE TALK
In 2006, the looming San Francisco Armory, a former National Guard facility modeled after a medieval fortress, was purchased for $14.5 million by Kink.com, a producer of online fetish porn. The sale sparked neighborhood protests, but now the brouhaha has quieted down, and Kink.com continues to film on the ready-made, dungeonlike sets.

ARTS
Since its founding in 1965, Intersection for the Arts has been a chemical plant of creativity, hosting performances by resident theater company Campo Santo, original jazz compositions, and a decades-old reading series. Even Robin Williams and Allen Ginsberg have performed here. 446 Valencia St.

Edgy and conceptually based shows—many by younger, up-and-coming artists—run at Jack Hanley Gallery and the temporary home of Southern Exposure Gallery. For SoEx’s exhibit on pollution, “Vapor” (ending May 3), patrons can collect air samples or rent a bike from the gallery, Zipcar-style. 395 Valencia St.; 417 14th St.

Fans of modern art (1900–1960s) and bohemian parties head to Lost Art Salon, tucked high up in the Post Tool Arts building. The salon is also a secret resource for home stagers, with more than 3,000 original pieces available for rent. 245 S. Van Ness Ave., Ste. 303

SHOPFRONTS
The funky, one-of-a-kind styles and unpretentious attitude at the Miranda Caroligne boutique and design studio have earned owner Miranda Burns’ clothing line a dedicated group of fans, both male and female. Burns custom-fits purchases, too. 485 14th St.

Friendly, worker-owned Box Dog Bikes is an affordable place to fix your two-wheeler—in fact, the shop even has a setup for DIY types. Tired of your ride? You can purchase and pedal away on one of Box Dog’s spiffy used bikes. 494 14th St.

The folks at Culture Skate stock all the bamboo, hemp, organic, and recycled-materials clothing (plus colorful Creation skateboard decks and reggae CDs) an eco-conscious, Rastafarian skater could want. 214 Valencia St.

Any home decorator looking for mid-20th-century designs should stop by Farnsworth; the year-and-a-half-old gallery packs some truly arresting furniture into its small space. 393 Valencia St.

ON THIS SPOT
Restaurant Woodward’s Garden sits on the former site of a two-square-block estate owned by hotelier Robert Woodward, which housed art galleries, a zoo, an aquarium, a roller-skating rink, and a theater. After Woodward’s death in 1879, his family closed the amusements and auctioned off the land. 1700 Mission St.

WHAT IT COSTS
…to rent: $1,475 for a one-bedroom apartment at 292 14th St.
…to buy: $638,000 for a remodeled three-bedroom unit in a tenancy-in-common at 439 14th St.