Best of people: Colleen Quen
Women of substance and style who want to compete with the artwork at
museum openings—or float down the aisle—visit the storied Heron
Street–based atelier of Colleen Quen. Though daring and often
fantastical, her couture creations are
made by hand using centuries-old techniques and are custom fitted to
each woman’s body. Quen, a fourth-generation Chinese American who spent
a decade designing for various labels like WilkesSport and Gap, studied
under a Parisian couturier before launching her own line 12 years ago.
Now she’s headed to the City of Light for a prestigious turn at Fashion
Week, where she’ll show a 30-piece collection that incorporates the
ancient batik, embroidery, and silverwork traditions of villagers in
China’s Guizhou Province into modern architectural silhouettes. Trust
us, this is only the beginning. Colleen Quen Couture: 7 Heron St., 415-551-0013
Quen's obsessions
True couture:
“It is about the form and the cut, [the] lines, where the darts are
placed. There’s a purpose for every cut I make. I’m really obsessed
with the shape and how it complements the body, but also with making
it very unusual, trying to extract out a new form.”
Discovering the next big thing:
“There are enough people doing ‘the next big thing’ already. In
couture, you create your own path and vision. I hope to be known as an
innovator, and to inspire people.”
Keeping it real: “For
me, the joy is to do everything by hand. I don’t even use computer
drafting. Feeling the design as an art piece is a different mental
state; it comes from a different motivation, and it requires different
skills.”
Going beyond fashion: “I do sword tai chi. I
don’t promote violence or fighting; it’s more about internal strength.
I meditate an hour a day and do my tai chi—there are 70 positions. It
grounds me for my day. I love having the sound and beauty of nature
around me.”
Her design mentors: “Charles James was able
to do everything, from the sketch to making his own patterns [to]
sewing. He was so into the cut and the form, and that’s so much like
the way I like to work. And I love Christian Lacroix’s use of
color—it’s very painterly.”
Learning from her travels: “The tribal people [in Guizhou Province] were outside all the time—they did all their work outside.”
Links:
[1] http://www.sanfranmag.com/content/colleenquenjpg-0