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October 2005
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All Clear at the Lake
Cooler days tinged with color, trails virtually free of gonzo bikers and boarders. It only lasts a few weeks, but once you catch up with fall at Lake Tahoe, you might swear off those snow chains once and for all.Sandwiched between the summer mayhem, when blue rafts float bumper-to-bumper down the Truckee River, and winter's snowy playground, which draws SUV loads of powder hounds well through spring, is that fleeting season called fall. Locals-only downtime. When the air is crisp but the lake's still swimmable. The crowds disappear, the roads unclog, the hotel rates drop. During this lull in the action, golden yellow leaves line deserted trails, and diehards skinny-dip late at night in an offering to the snow gods. There are Oktoberfests and food-and-wine fests and marathons. From Squaw Valley to Incline Village and all their wilder environs, here's everything you need to know. Don't wait till December: Tahoe's off-season is on.
THE PADDLE
Without the constant whiz of summer's Jet Skis and carousing motorboat crowds, a welcome quietude returns to the 12-mile-wide, 22-mile-long deep-blue alpine lake, making fall the locals' favorite time to kayak. Put on your polypropylene and your sunscreen to head out for a paddle.
Launch from Sand Harbor State Park, off Highway 28 on the Nevada side, and head south past rocky coves along the east shore to Incline Village.
BYO boat, or rent one in the mountains through mid-October from Sand Harbor kayak rentals, located at the boat ramp. (775) 782-5657; Call for reservations.
THE PICNIC
Head with your sweetie mere minutes from Tahoe City up to Page Meadows, where you can lounge on your blanket all day, encircled by amber aspen leaves and complete stillness at 6,400 feet, with nary a passerby to interrupt your reverie. The stifling, saunalike summer weather (which makes lying in a wide-open prairie unbearable) is over, and the snow (which makes lazy picnicking up here impossible) has yet to set in. Pack your basket with gourmet fare from Tahoe House (625 Highway 89, 530/583-1377), less than a mile from the trailhead: smoked red trout, freshly baked breads, giant chocolate chip cookies, and a bottle of wine.
Once you've got your picnic together, take Highway 89 two miles south of Tahoe City. Turn right on Pine Street, right on Tahoe Park Heights Drive, right on Big Pine Drive, and left on Silver Tip and proceed to the end. Park on the road. There's no sign, but the trailhead is obvious. Head in about a mile; when you see two wooden stumps, take a right, and you'll hit the meadow in less than 100 yards.
THE TRAILS
A half-exposed, half-pine-lined series of switchbacks that straddles the backcountry between Alpine Meadows and Squaw Valley, the Five Lakes Trail takes you above the evergreens, past impressive granite faces, and along a boulder-strewn canyon before hitting the largest lake of—no surprise here—five. Go ahead and jump in, with or without your suit on. Think of it as your last chance to check out the bare mountain before it's blanketed in all that snowy-white goodness. (It's kinda cool to see what's been banging up the bottom of your skis.)
To reach the trail, take Highway 89 four miles north of Tahoe City. Turn left on Alpine Meadows Road. The trailhead is across from the second Deer Park Drive sign. Park along the street and head up for the five-mile round-trip hike.
Dubbed "Incline Flume" by the locals, this otherwise unmarked amble takes you through groves of aspens whose sun-scorched leaves shake and shimmer in the slightest breeze and make for some of the best fall foliage this side of Vermont. You'll also be treated to panoramic views of the brilliant Big Blue. This stretch of sandy-soft single track connects up with the Tahoe Rim Trail and is also groomed for mountain bikers—with curvy berms, log jumps, and plenty of up-and-downs.
To get there, take State Route 431, just over the state line off Highway 28, and head 3.9 miles up. Drive 350 feet past the scenic overlook and turn right into a tiny dirt lot. There's no signage, but the trail is evident. You could go on for more than 160 miles once you link up with the Tahoe Rim, the recently completed trail that encircles North America's largest alpine lake. Otherwise, this specific stretch takes about two and a half to three hours round-trip, if you pivot when you reach the Tahoe Rim Trail sign.
THE RIDE
Heaven on earth for avid mountain bikers, the Flume Trail is a 13.5-mile roller coaster of a ride—or stunning hike: just watch your back for speeding cyclists!—complete with heart-pumping uphill climbs, worth-the-pain views of Lake Tahoe, and the orange and yellow leaves surrounding Marlette Lake 5 miles in. This time of year, you can have one of the country's most trampled off-road rides all to yourself (the Flume sees roughly 400 folks a weekend in the summer). Since at times it's only 18 inches wide at 7,770 feet, and flanked by a 1,500-foot drop, you've got to be cool with cliffs (occasionally crumbly ones, at that) to stomach this celebrated trail.
Take Highway 28 to the Spooner Lake parking lot in Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park. A shuttle service ($12.50 on weekends, $10 on weekdays) operates through October on a limited schedule from the ending point 13.5 miles down at Tunnel Creek Road in Incline, or do your own car drop-off ahead of time. Total nuts might opt to double back for the whole 27 miles. (775) 749-5349, www.theflumetrail.com.
THE FISHING
OK, so Tahoe's Little Truckee isn't exactly Idaho's famed Silver Creek, but it's still got trout. And if you want to wet a line, fall is a great time: fewer fishermen means hungrier fish. Make sure you've got your fishing license in hand, stay at least a thousand feet away from the lake outlet, tie on a woolly bugger, and cast your line—the river's swimming with both native and stocked browns and rainbows.
The stream has two main sections. One starts from Webber Lake and flows east 16 miles toward Stampede Reservoir, accessible off Highway 89, north of Truckee; the other is between Stampede and Boca reservoirs, accessible north of Highway 80, east of Truckee. (The season ends November 15.)
While the 63,960-acre Desolation Wilderness hosts as many backcountry campers as it does mosquitoes in the heat of summer, rarely do you see hikers with rod in hand. And come October, rarely do you see anyone at all. Pitch your tent on the granite banks of any one of the region's 130 lakes (Heather, Hidden, Aloha, and Granite are all good ones for anglers) and fish for brookies and rainbows from dawn to dusk. Pack in a float tube if you want to get serious.
There are multiple entrance points: the Meeks Bay trailhead is 12 miles south of Tahoe City, off Highway 89, past Homewood. After picking up your permit (required for both daytime and overnight use), park in a small dirt lot across from the Meeks Bay Resort. From here you'll hike in just 4.5 miles before you hit Genevieve, the first lake.
THE COURSE
Opened last year by Jack Nicklaus, the $15 million Old Greenwood course blends respectfully into its pine- and sagebrush-lined surroundings (the course recently applied for Audubon International certification for its environmentally sound design) and has already become one of the tougher tee times to score in all of Tahoe's 14 courses. In the fall, though, reservations are far more available, you'll have fewer foursomes breathing down your neck, and twilight rates plummet to a mere $100 (down from the typical $170 a pop). As of now, the 100-acre, par-72 course right outside of Truckee (with a killer view from the 16th hole of soaring peaks and the rushing river) is scheduled to close October 23. If the weather stays warm, though, the pros may keep it open till the first signs of snow. Exit 190 off Interstate 80, (530) 550-7010, www.oldgreenwood.com.
THE SPAS
After all that hard playtime, get yourself in for a well-deserved rubdown at one of Tahoe's two newest spas.
Trilogy Spa, a sleek L.A.-Hawaiian style indoor oasis, just opened in the Village at Squaw Valley in August, and the après-ski/hike/bike set is lining up for the transcendent rubs and scrubs. (As are the not-so-outdoorsy types who love to tag along to the mountains but need something cushier to do.) Pop in to the "lava lounge" for an à la carte mani-pedi or foot massage, or book a 75-minute kukui, milk, and honey body treatment and be dry-brushed, rubbed with macadamia nut oil and cane sugar, and bathed in silky cocoa butter, all beneath Squaw's jagged peaks. 1850 Village South Rd., Olympic Valley, (530) 584-6125.
Twenty thousand square feet of two-tiered lakefront luxury, including an elegantly rustic lounge with deep leather chairs and a big bowl of apples, five fireplaces, full-service salon, eucalyptus steam room and dry sauna, heated outdoor pool, Jacuzzi and patio, and 16 treatment rooms where all that pinkie-toe-to-tip-of-your-ear magic happens: Stillwater Spa is quickly becoming the go-to pampering palace at the lake. Couples are especially indulged with the "fireside romance" package, which includes footbaths and side-by-side massages next to the flicker of a roaring fire. At Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe, 111 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, Nevada, (775) 886-6745.
THE LODGINGS
The Village at Squaw Valley USA, Tahoe's newest digs, is winning fans with its home-for-the-weekend kind of accommodations. These oh-so-convenient one-, two-, and three-bedrooms come fully equipped—including granite-counter kitchens perfect for fixing up a fall feast. At the burgeoning base of Squaw, the condos were just completed in December of 2003—and done right, with deluxe comforters, ecofriendly gas fireplaces, and free high-speed Internet access.
Off-season: as low as $149/night for one-bedroom; as low as $349/night for three-bedroom.
High season: up to $399/night for one-bedroom; up to $899/night for three-bedroom.
1750 Village East Rd., Olympic Valley, (888) 805-5022, www.thevillageatsquaw.com.
PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn is Squawgoers' stylish standby, with 61 luxe-but-laid-back rooms and suites, replete with down comforters, deep soaking tubs (in the suites only), supercozy hooded robes—and a pool surrounded by brilliant autumn foliage.
Off-season: $139-$199/night for standard rooms; $249-$399/night for suites.
High season: $199-$320/night for standard rooms; $280-$550/night for suites.
1920 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Valley, (800) 323-7666.
Nowhere else in Tahoe can you stay beachside in such lavish, mountain-style comfort: lakeside cottages at the Hyatt Regency feature spacious rooms with oversized cushy couches, high wood-beamed ceilings, wood-burning fires sparked just for you, and balconies with Adirondack chairs angled toward the lapping water.
Off-season: $425/night.
High season: $880/night.
111 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, Nevada, (800) 553-3288, www.laketahoe.hyatt.com.
Clean, comfortable, with a hint of quirky (fake flowers, box fans, and two Andes candies on the night table), River Ranch Lodge on the banks of the Truckee is peeling a little brown paint, but it's timeless Tahoe at its finest. Duck downstairs to the dark-wooden bar for top-notch nachos and the Sierra's best Bloody Marys (coziest seats in the house are the cushioned banquettes by the roaring fire in the back).
Off-season: $70-$140/night.
High season: $90-$180/night.
Hwy. 89 at Alpine Meadows Rd., Tahoe City, (530) 583-4264 or (800) 553-3288, www.riverranchlodge.com.
When you want to live large for a weekend, lakeside, splash out for one of the luxury rentals through Chase International, multimillion dollar homes for mere hundreds (or up to $1,500) a night. Hire a private chef or an in-house masseuse or just hunker down in the hot tub.
Off-season: $125 ($200 for lakefront)-$1,500/night.
High season: $250-$2,500/night.
(866) 581-0522, www.chaseinternational.com, www.laketahoeluxuryrentals.com.
THE FOOD
The Wild Goose is a truly beautiful lakeside restaurant serving some of the best food you'll find at 6,200 feet: seared blue marlin sushi-style, Niman Ranch pork rib eye, and nonendangered Hawaiian sea bass. Come in for sunset cocktails (around 6 o'clock these days) and take in the pink autumn sky. 7320 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe Vista, (530) 546-3640, www.wildgoosetahoe.com.
Urban-hip in a mountain-town kind of way and with a menu as sophisticated as just about anything you'll find in San Francisco, the dimly lit, deep-boothed Moody's Bistro and Lounge, loved by the locals, has live tunes seven nights a week (Paul McCartney once graced the small stage while in for dinner), plus tender beef short ribs, Dungeness crab "toast," and DIY s'mores for dessert. 10007 Bridge St., Truckee, (530) 587-8688, www.moodysbistro.com.
The new Auld Dubliner pub thinks way beyond fish-and-chips (though it does a fine job with those, too) and has brought a bit of Ireland to the base of Squaw. It's quickly become the social center of the village. Twenty-ounce pints go down easy with really, really good (and really, really filling) plates of corned-beef-and-cabbage boxtys (stuffed potato pancakes) and bangers and champ (that's Irish-speak for mash mixed with green onions). Pull in après-hike for a full-on feast. 1850 Village South Rd., Olympic Valley, (530) 584-6041, www.aulddubliner.com/sv.
THE PADDLE
Without the constant whiz of summer's Jet Skis and carousing motorboat crowds, a welcome quietude returns to the 12-mile-wide, 22-mile-long deep-blue alpine lake, making fall the locals' favorite time to kayak. Put on your polypropylene and your sunscreen to head out for a paddle.
Launch from Sand Harbor State Park, off Highway 28 on the Nevada side, and head south past rocky coves along the east shore to Incline Village.
BYO boat, or rent one in the mountains through mid-October from Sand Harbor kayak rentals, located at the boat ramp. (775) 782-5657; Call for reservations.
THE PICNIC
Head with your sweetie mere minutes from Tahoe City up to Page Meadows, where you can lounge on your blanket all day, encircled by amber aspen leaves and complete stillness at 6,400 feet, with nary a passerby to interrupt your reverie. The stifling, saunalike summer weather (which makes lying in a wide-open prairie unbearable) is over, and the snow (which makes lazy picnicking up here impossible) has yet to set in. Pack your basket with gourmet fare from Tahoe House (625 Highway 89, 530/583-1377), less than a mile from the trailhead: smoked red trout, freshly baked breads, giant chocolate chip cookies, and a bottle of wine.
Once you've got your picnic together, take Highway 89 two miles south of Tahoe City. Turn right on Pine Street, right on Tahoe Park Heights Drive, right on Big Pine Drive, and left on Silver Tip and proceed to the end. Park on the road. There's no sign, but the trailhead is obvious. Head in about a mile; when you see two wooden stumps, take a right, and you'll hit the meadow in less than 100 yards.
THE TRAILS
A half-exposed, half-pine-lined series of switchbacks that straddles the backcountry between Alpine Meadows and Squaw Valley, the Five Lakes Trail takes you above the evergreens, past impressive granite faces, and along a boulder-strewn canyon before hitting the largest lake of—no surprise here—five. Go ahead and jump in, with or without your suit on. Think of it as your last chance to check out the bare mountain before it's blanketed in all that snowy-white goodness. (It's kinda cool to see what's been banging up the bottom of your skis.)
To reach the trail, take Highway 89 four miles north of Tahoe City. Turn left on Alpine Meadows Road. The trailhead is across from the second Deer Park Drive sign. Park along the street and head up for the five-mile round-trip hike.
Dubbed "Incline Flume" by the locals, this otherwise unmarked amble takes you through groves of aspens whose sun-scorched leaves shake and shimmer in the slightest breeze and make for some of the best fall foliage this side of Vermont. You'll also be treated to panoramic views of the brilliant Big Blue. This stretch of sandy-soft single track connects up with the Tahoe Rim Trail and is also groomed for mountain bikers—with curvy berms, log jumps, and plenty of up-and-downs.
To get there, take State Route 431, just over the state line off Highway 28, and head 3.9 miles up. Drive 350 feet past the scenic overlook and turn right into a tiny dirt lot. There's no signage, but the trail is evident. You could go on for more than 160 miles once you link up with the Tahoe Rim, the recently completed trail that encircles North America's largest alpine lake. Otherwise, this specific stretch takes about two and a half to three hours round-trip, if you pivot when you reach the Tahoe Rim Trail sign.
THE RIDE
Heaven on earth for avid mountain bikers, the Flume Trail is a 13.5-mile roller coaster of a ride—or stunning hike: just watch your back for speeding cyclists!—complete with heart-pumping uphill climbs, worth-the-pain views of Lake Tahoe, and the orange and yellow leaves surrounding Marlette Lake 5 miles in. This time of year, you can have one of the country's most trampled off-road rides all to yourself (the Flume sees roughly 400 folks a weekend in the summer). Since at times it's only 18 inches wide at 7,770 feet, and flanked by a 1,500-foot drop, you've got to be cool with cliffs (occasionally crumbly ones, at that) to stomach this celebrated trail.
Take Highway 28 to the Spooner Lake parking lot in Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park. A shuttle service ($12.50 on weekends, $10 on weekdays) operates through October on a limited schedule from the ending point 13.5 miles down at Tunnel Creek Road in Incline, or do your own car drop-off ahead of time. Total nuts might opt to double back for the whole 27 miles. (775) 749-5349, www.theflumetrail.com.
THE FISHING
OK, so Tahoe's Little Truckee isn't exactly Idaho's famed Silver Creek, but it's still got trout. And if you want to wet a line, fall is a great time: fewer fishermen means hungrier fish. Make sure you've got your fishing license in hand, stay at least a thousand feet away from the lake outlet, tie on a woolly bugger, and cast your line—the river's swimming with both native and stocked browns and rainbows.
The stream has two main sections. One starts from Webber Lake and flows east 16 miles toward Stampede Reservoir, accessible off Highway 89, north of Truckee; the other is between Stampede and Boca reservoirs, accessible north of Highway 80, east of Truckee. (The season ends November 15.)
While the 63,960-acre Desolation Wilderness hosts as many backcountry campers as it does mosquitoes in the heat of summer, rarely do you see hikers with rod in hand. And come October, rarely do you see anyone at all. Pitch your tent on the granite banks of any one of the region's 130 lakes (Heather, Hidden, Aloha, and Granite are all good ones for anglers) and fish for brookies and rainbows from dawn to dusk. Pack in a float tube if you want to get serious.
There are multiple entrance points: the Meeks Bay trailhead is 12 miles south of Tahoe City, off Highway 89, past Homewood. After picking up your permit (required for both daytime and overnight use), park in a small dirt lot across from the Meeks Bay Resort. From here you'll hike in just 4.5 miles before you hit Genevieve, the first lake.
THE COURSE
Opened last year by Jack Nicklaus, the $15 million Old Greenwood course blends respectfully into its pine- and sagebrush-lined surroundings (the course recently applied for Audubon International certification for its environmentally sound design) and has already become one of the tougher tee times to score in all of Tahoe's 14 courses. In the fall, though, reservations are far more available, you'll have fewer foursomes breathing down your neck, and twilight rates plummet to a mere $100 (down from the typical $170 a pop). As of now, the 100-acre, par-72 course right outside of Truckee (with a killer view from the 16th hole of soaring peaks and the rushing river) is scheduled to close October 23. If the weather stays warm, though, the pros may keep it open till the first signs of snow. Exit 190 off Interstate 80, (530) 550-7010, www.oldgreenwood.com.
THE SPAS
After all that hard playtime, get yourself in for a well-deserved rubdown at one of Tahoe's two newest spas.
Trilogy Spa, a sleek L.A.-Hawaiian style indoor oasis, just opened in the Village at Squaw Valley in August, and the après-ski/hike/bike set is lining up for the transcendent rubs and scrubs. (As are the not-so-outdoorsy types who love to tag along to the mountains but need something cushier to do.) Pop in to the "lava lounge" for an à la carte mani-pedi or foot massage, or book a 75-minute kukui, milk, and honey body treatment and be dry-brushed, rubbed with macadamia nut oil and cane sugar, and bathed in silky cocoa butter, all beneath Squaw's jagged peaks. 1850 Village South Rd., Olympic Valley, (530) 584-6125.
Twenty thousand square feet of two-tiered lakefront luxury, including an elegantly rustic lounge with deep leather chairs and a big bowl of apples, five fireplaces, full-service salon, eucalyptus steam room and dry sauna, heated outdoor pool, Jacuzzi and patio, and 16 treatment rooms where all that pinkie-toe-to-tip-of-your-ear magic happens: Stillwater Spa is quickly becoming the go-to pampering palace at the lake. Couples are especially indulged with the "fireside romance" package, which includes footbaths and side-by-side massages next to the flicker of a roaring fire. At Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe, 111 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, Nevada, (775) 886-6745.
THE LODGINGS
The Village at Squaw Valley USA, Tahoe's newest digs, is winning fans with its home-for-the-weekend kind of accommodations. These oh-so-convenient one-, two-, and three-bedrooms come fully equipped—including granite-counter kitchens perfect for fixing up a fall feast. At the burgeoning base of Squaw, the condos were just completed in December of 2003—and done right, with deluxe comforters, ecofriendly gas fireplaces, and free high-speed Internet access.
Off-season: as low as $149/night for one-bedroom; as low as $349/night for three-bedroom.
High season: up to $399/night for one-bedroom; up to $899/night for three-bedroom.
1750 Village East Rd., Olympic Valley, (888) 805-5022, www.thevillageatsquaw.com.
PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn is Squawgoers' stylish standby, with 61 luxe-but-laid-back rooms and suites, replete with down comforters, deep soaking tubs (in the suites only), supercozy hooded robes—and a pool surrounded by brilliant autumn foliage.
Off-season: $139-$199/night for standard rooms; $249-$399/night for suites.
High season: $199-$320/night for standard rooms; $280-$550/night for suites.
1920 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Valley, (800) 323-7666.
Nowhere else in Tahoe can you stay beachside in such lavish, mountain-style comfort: lakeside cottages at the Hyatt Regency feature spacious rooms with oversized cushy couches, high wood-beamed ceilings, wood-burning fires sparked just for you, and balconies with Adirondack chairs angled toward the lapping water.
Off-season: $425/night.
High season: $880/night.
111 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, Nevada, (800) 553-3288, www.laketahoe.hyatt.com.
Clean, comfortable, with a hint of quirky (fake flowers, box fans, and two Andes candies on the night table), River Ranch Lodge on the banks of the Truckee is peeling a little brown paint, but it's timeless Tahoe at its finest. Duck downstairs to the dark-wooden bar for top-notch nachos and the Sierra's best Bloody Marys (coziest seats in the house are the cushioned banquettes by the roaring fire in the back).
Off-season: $70-$140/night.
High season: $90-$180/night.
Hwy. 89 at Alpine Meadows Rd., Tahoe City, (530) 583-4264 or (800) 553-3288, www.riverranchlodge.com.
When you want to live large for a weekend, lakeside, splash out for one of the luxury rentals through Chase International, multimillion dollar homes for mere hundreds (or up to $1,500) a night. Hire a private chef or an in-house masseuse or just hunker down in the hot tub.
Off-season: $125 ($200 for lakefront)-$1,500/night.
High season: $250-$2,500/night.
(866) 581-0522, www.chaseinternational.com, www.laketahoeluxuryrentals.com.
THE FOOD
The Wild Goose is a truly beautiful lakeside restaurant serving some of the best food you'll find at 6,200 feet: seared blue marlin sushi-style, Niman Ranch pork rib eye, and nonendangered Hawaiian sea bass. Come in for sunset cocktails (around 6 o'clock these days) and take in the pink autumn sky. 7320 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe Vista, (530) 546-3640, www.wildgoosetahoe.com.
Urban-hip in a mountain-town kind of way and with a menu as sophisticated as just about anything you'll find in San Francisco, the dimly lit, deep-boothed Moody's Bistro and Lounge, loved by the locals, has live tunes seven nights a week (Paul McCartney once graced the small stage while in for dinner), plus tender beef short ribs, Dungeness crab "toast," and DIY s'mores for dessert. 10007 Bridge St., Truckee, (530) 587-8688, www.moodysbistro.com.
The new Auld Dubliner pub thinks way beyond fish-and-chips (though it does a fine job with those, too) and has brought a bit of Ireland to the base of Squaw. It's quickly become the social center of the village. Twenty-ounce pints go down easy with really, really good (and really, really filling) plates of corned-beef-and-cabbage boxtys (stuffed potato pancakes) and bangers and champ (that's Irish-speak for mash mixed with green onions). Pull in après-hike for a full-on feast. 1850 Village South Rd., Olympic Valley, (530) 584-6041, www.aulddubliner.com/sv.
FEATURE
Gone
Our recent story about teen suicide on the Golden Gate Bridge has generated a sometimes heated debate. In the last four years, 16 young people have climbed over the rail and jumped. These kids weren’t crazy. They were in the throes of painful—and impulsive—adolescence. Then, suddenly, they were gone.
Suicide hotlines and resources
If you or someone you know might be contemplating suicide, contact the following resources.
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