Katmai National Park, Alaska

From a thousand feet up in the cockpit of a floatplane, southwestern Alaska feels like the edge of the world. Wide slate skies shot through with clouds, islands dense with trees and white peaks, choppy waters rolling toward the horizon—it’s wild and beautiful and a little scary, a region so impossibly big that its occasional human settlements look like afterthoughts. But much care has been devoted to the location and details of the outposts of civilization around here, especially when it comes to planting yourself in the middle of nature’s action. There’s fresh, often locally caught food; a nearly inexhaustible array of outdoor activities; and, morning or night, a stillness that’s hard to find in the Lower 48.

On the Alaska Peninsula, within the Katmai National Park and Preserve, the sockeye salmon start running in June, when Brooks Lodge opens for the season. Roads are scarce here, so the lodge is accessible only by floatplanes, some nearly a half-century old and still sporting bomb clips on their wings (reminders, perhaps, of their days in the Ghanaian Air Force). But never fear—all have GPS.

Originally a 1950s fishing camp, the lodge lies right at the heart of one of the world’s highest concentrations of grizzly bears, drawn by the million or so salmon that fight their way up the rivers each summer. (Timothy Treadwell, the tragicomic bear activist immortalized in the Werner Herzog film Grizzly Man, met his end about 50 miles from here.) From the lodge, it’s a short hike to Brooks Falls; here, from a protected platform, you can watch hulking, dripping-wet grizzlies pull fish from the river with their paws. The fly-fishing is world-class, too, though you may find yourself competing against the bears. Just to the east, a quick shuttle ride from the lodge, is the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, where a massive volcanic eruption in 1912 blew the top off a mountain and scattered debris as far as Seattle. It’s a moonscape now, its ash-covered gorges cut by rivers and ringed by snowy mountains.

You’ll sleep in a shingled cabin that’s equal parts cozy and spartan, with comfy bunks and gasp-inducing views. During the off-season, hibernation-minded grizzlies try to break into the cabins, so your door might sport telltale claw marks. The main lodge is reminiscent of a mid-20th-century ski chalet, with an enormous stone hearth and communal tables for meals. The food—simple, fresh fish and burgers and steaks—is plentiful and served cafeteria-style. After dinner, grab one of the dozen or so chairs arrayed around the fire, get a drink from the bar, and enjoy the panoramic view of Naknek Lake, painted an otherworldly bright blue by glacial silt. It might sound like a lot to squeeze in, but remember, you’ve got 18 or 19 hours of daylight. Time is on your side. —Chris Smith

Rates: one, two, or three-night stay available, $844–1,050. Includes round-trip airfare between anchorage and brooks, all park fees, taxes, and lodging. Brooks lLodge: 800-544-0551, katmailand.com