September 2006
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A quiet getaway up north always sounds like a great idea—until you pull in to Cafe Beaujolais during high season without a reservation. But you don’t have to fight the masses to enjoy the best the north coast has to offer. About 30 minutes south of Mendocino, the bars on your cell phone will disappear, which you should take as a sign that it’s time to slow down. On the Navarro coast, near the small town of Elk (just south of where highways 128 and 1 merge), you won’t have much choice. This stretch, long revered by kayakers and deep-sea divers, features quaint and comfortable coastal inns, sumptuous spas, and gourmet dining rooms with dramatic views. The proximity to the Anderson Valley means you can also enjoy a little wine time and bypass the fog in favor of some sunning and a dip in the Navarro River.
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There’s no shortage of places to stay along this stretch of Highway 1, but the Harbor House Inn stands apart, thanks in no small part to its private beach. The redwood Craftsman-style building has six rooms—with gas fireplaces, many with four-poster beds and high vaulted ceilings—along with four cottages. The Lookout and Cypress rooms come with private ocean-view decks. Workaholics, take note: there are no televisions or phones in the rooms. So ditch your CrackBerry and savor a four-course dinner featuring homegrown vegetables and locally caught fish, served in a dining room overlooking the crashing surf. The wine list, boasting a wide selection of local vintages, will appeal to those who want to sample the products of the nearby Anderson Valley vineyards. Outside, Adirondack chairs scattered throughout the tiered garden offer prime perches for soaking up the view. Steps lead down to the private cove that’s known as one of the best diving and abalone hunting spots in the state. 5600 south Hwy. 1, Elk, 800-720-7474, www.theharborhouseinn.com.
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Swimming and sunbathing? On the north coast? It sounds insane, but the sunny Navarro River, which snakes its way along Highway 128 to the sea, offers a fog-free spot where the water really is warm enough to dive in. While most visitors jump in at the Paul M. Dimmick campground, locals prefer a hidden swimming hole at mile marker 3.66. Take the well-trod path about 20 feet, through a lush grove to a secluded golden-sand beach, then lie around and soak up the sun before diving into the refreshing emerald river. Navarro River Redwoods State Park, Hwy. 128, mile marker 3.66.
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Along Highway 128, not far from the foggy coast, are the sun-drenched hills of Anderson Valley, which are scattered with vineyards large and small. At the top of oenophiles’ lists is the tasting room at the small, family-owned Navarro Vineyards, one of the valley’s first to bottle gewürztraminer, the Alsatian-style white for which the region is known. The pours are generous, and the wooden deck, with its sweeping views, is perfect for a picnic. Navarro sells its small-batch wines only by mail order and to restaurants like Rubicon and Boulevard, so bringing a bottle home is sure to impress wine-obsessed friends. 5601 Hwy. 128, Philo, 707-895-3686, www.navarrowine.com.
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A restaurant advertising sea views often translates into a menu of overpriced, batter-fried calamari and sauce-smothered shrimp cocktail, but not in this neck of the woods. At the Ledford House, just north of Elk, Tony and Lisa Greer serve Provençal-style dishes such as cassoulet with lamb, sausage, and duck confit and fish stew in a white wine, tomato, fennel, and saffron broth. A long list of local wines helps make it a special-occasion favorite for those who live nearby. 3000 North Hwy. 1, Albion, 707-937-0282, www.ledfordhouse.com.
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As if the wine, the awe-inspiring coastline, and Elk’s slow pace aren’t enough to soothe your city-worn nerves, the Elk Cove Inn offers euphoria-inducing rubdowns. The only inn in the area with a full-service spa, Elk Cove offers massages and facials, with an emphasis on treatments for couples. After an aromatherapy steam shower, linger in your blissed-out state at the garden overlooking the cove of Greenwood State Beach. 6300 South Hwy. 1, Elk, 707-877-3321, www.elkcoveinn.com.
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