¡Sabor!

Story and photo by Scott Hocker

Estado: Jalisco

Especialidad: The Jalisciense presence is so wide-ranging in the Bay Area, it can be felt even on a commercial stretch of road on the northern edge of Vallejo. There, in the parking lot of Vallejo Furniture superstore, is a truck with such telltale Jalisco-born dishes as the savory masa tartlets called sopes and the relatively uncommon tacos de chicharrón. If the word chicharrón triggers thoughts of plastic bags full of airy, fried pork skin at your local carnicería, take a deep breath because these chicharrón are an entirely different creature: Think of them as luscious fried bits of pork belly. Served with stewed pinto beans, a simple onion, cilantro, and chili salsa, radishes, and pickled jalapeños and carrots, they beg to be savored on the spot, out of the heat at one of the tree-shaded picnic tables a few steps away.

$1.50 each, Mariscos Autlán truck, corner of Sonoma Blvd. and Sereno Ave., Vallejo