Staying put

The new restaurant lounges are so appealing that they raise the question “Who needs dining rooms?”

Scott Hocker

Gone are the days when restaurant lounges were a barely conceived purgatory between outside and inside, starving and sated. San Francisco restaurateurs have finally realized that a waiting room can serve great drinks, offer food other than stale nuts and olives, and, most revolutionary of all, be so relaxed and inviting that the lounge becomes the destination instead of a way station.

Poleng Lounge, in the space that once housed legendary jazz and hip-hop venue Storyville, has so thoroughly absorbed this concept that the entire restaurant pulses with an easy, unpretentious vibe. Locals from the Western Addition (or should we say, NoPa) melt into the palm wood banquettes, nibbling on chef Timothy Luym’s fancified take on Asian street food and sipping tea-centric cocktails. Come 10 p.m., when Poleng turns into a nightclub, anyone who has finished lounging but isn’t ready to call it a night can tear up the dance floor until the clock strikes two.

Poleng Lounge
9:28 p.m.

THE LOOK
Southeast Asian beach hut chic, complete with Hindu-Buddhist statues and palm fronds.

THE SAUCE
Cocktails like Monkey Love Juice—a mix of Malibu, vodka, lychee juice, and black tea—taste far better than they sound.

THE NOSH
With dishes including salpicao (tenderloin served with bone marrow and mango salsa) and eggplant with coconut curry, Poleng’s food is like no other’s.

THE DISTRACTION
Two flat screens behind the bar flash snapshots of Bali and Java. Just try to look away.

THE CROWD
Straight-laced couples, hipster lovebirds, and hip-hop kids from the East Bay.

THE SOUND TRACK
Funk, electronica—anything to keep the room energized.

THE HEADS-UP
At the end of the week, there’s typically a cover—up to $20—beginning at 10. Events before Thursdays are often free.

1751 fulton ave., s.f., 415-441-1710

Elsewhere

Serving real tapas until midnight, Spanish Fly packs them in out in the Avenues. 3300 Geary Blvd., S.F., 415-668-6934.

There’s plenty to enjoy in Coi’s lounge, including simple, sophisticated nibbles, a smart wine list, and shaggy white pillows. 373 Broadway, S.F., 415-393-9000.

Grabbing a reservation in Myth’s dining room is still no small feat. Its lounge serves the same menu in a low-key setting. 470 Pacific Ave., S.F., 415-677-8986.